1,976 research outputs found

    Numerical Assessment of Infragravity Swash Response to Offshore Wave Frequency Spread Variability

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    We use a numerical model, already validated for this purpose, to simulate the effect of wave frequency spread on wave transformation and swash amplitudes. Simulations are performed for planar beach slope cases and for offshore wave spectra whose frequency spread changes over realistic values. Results indicate that frequency spread, under normally approaching waves, affects swash amplitudes. For moderately dissipative conditions, the significant infragravity swash increases for increasing values of the offshore frequency spread. The opposite occurs under extremely dissipative conditions. The numerical analysis suggests that this inverted pattern is driven by the effect that different distributions of incoming long?wave energy have on low?frequency wave propagation and dissipation. In fact, with large frequency spreads, wave groups force relatively short subharmonic waves that are strongly enhanced in the shoaling zone. This process leads to an infragravity swash increase for increasing frequency spread under moderately dissipative conditions in which low?frequency energy dissipation in shallow water is negligible or small. However, under extremely dissipative conditions, the significant low?frequency energy dissipation associated with large frequency spreads overturns the strong energy growth in the shoaling zone eventually yielding an infragravity swash decrease for increasing frequency spread.This work has been funded under (1) the RETOS INVESTIGACION 2014 (Grant BIA2014-59718-R) program of the Spanish Ministry of Economy and Competitiveness and (2) the NEPTUNE 2 project, L. R. 7/2007 by Regione Autonoma della Sardegna

    LISREL analysis of twin data with structured means

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    Introduces a method to test the hypothesis that the phenotypic means and the phenotypic covariances can be modeled with the same common genetic and environmental factors. LISREL can be used to implement the method. An illustration with simulated twin data is provided

    The holy blood and the holy grail: Myths of scientific racism and the pursuit of excellence in sport

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    Despite the continuing publication of research that suggests there is no scientific basis to 'race' as a biological category, theories of racial difference continue to be invoked within sport to explain the perceived dominance of black athletes. In the case of John Entine's controversial 'Taboo: why black athletes dominate sports and why we are afraid to talk about it' or undergraduate textbooks that suggest 'racial differences' in physique may significantly affect athletic performance, scientific racism is normalised in sport. In this article, the relationship between scientific racism and sport will be examined. Qualitative research with current sport scientists is used to investigate the socio-ethical tensions within the subject field of sport science between professionalism, scientism and the demand from external interests to produce results that help people in sport win medals. It will be shown that these tensions, combined with the history of race as a category in sport science, combine to create the discourse of scientific knowledge that reflects, rather than challenges, folk genetics of black athletic physicality
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